A Little Slice Of Malaysian Culture

London, United Kingdom - At first glance, the black-and-white portrait of a demure Malay woman rekindled nostalgic memories of the P. Ramlee era.

But this is 21st century London and Hanisah Ibrahim is no celebrity. She was not even a singer in the legendary star‘s dazzling musicals.

She was, so to speak, just an ordinary housewife.

But the way her pictures grace Bonda Cafe (www.bondacafelondon.com) in Sussex Gardens, Paddington, its menu, business cards and even its web page speaks of a larger-than-life personality.

“She was a divine cook. Her greatest forte was whipping up Kelantan traditional delicacies,” said Dr Noriati Tuan Mohamed, describing her late mother whom she credited as the biggest inspiration behind this little slice of Malaysian culture in London.

Indeed, the Kota Baru-born doctor spoke fondly of her mum who, she said, loved to make authentic Malay kuih such as seri muka and kerutuk (like rendang) during Ramadan.

In fact, Dr Noriati and her husband Salahudin Yaakob had a problem coming up with a suitable name when they took over the former Nahar Cafe two years ago.

“I wanted a name that Malaysians can relate to. And my mother being a talented cook came to my mind,” she said, adding that they decided to call it Bonda (“mother” in Malay) since everyone was attached to their mum in one way or another.

She has never regretted the choice since and business has been good as the eatery‘s mamak-style authentic Malaysian food appeals to both Malaysians and locals alike.

Ramadan season

A psychiatrist by profession, Dr Noriati quit her lucrative job at the Chelsea & Westminster Hospital in Fulham to help her husband run the eatery two years ago.

But what drove her to swap her doctor‘s gown for the kitchen apron? It‘s a world apart between seeing patients in the comfort of her clinic and taking orders and serving customers.

As a psychiatrist the money may be good, but the responsibility of looking after four boroughs – Fulham, Chelsea, Kensington and Hammersmith – had apparently taken its toll on her.

It was then that she decided to take a career break and spend more time with her husband and their two children, Nik Iman Nufail Salahudin, five, and Nik Rosa Shanaz Salahudin, 10.

“The feeling is like you‘re suddenly freed from prison. I‘m now enjoying myself as I can spend quality time with my family,” she explained.

Dr Noriati admitted that when her husband first got the contract to manage the five-storey Mara building and basement cafe, she just wanted to help him get things up and running.

Besides the eatery, Salahudin also manages the building‘s hostel accommodation for Malaysians, a travel agency and several other businesses.

Having had his finger in too many pies, it was only natural that his wife stepped in temporarily to manage the cafe.

“Well, things have been running for quite a while now. I want to run away but he won‘t let me,” she quipped.

At this point, the Ramadan season has given more reason for Dr Noriati to be around; it‘s a double whammy when it comes to catering for those coming to buka puasa (break the fast) and for dinner.

Culinary skills

Except for a quiet summer break when Malaysian students return home or go for holidays in Europe, their business has been largely unaffected by the economic slowdown.

“Our Ramadan customers comprise not just Malaysians but also Muslims from Brunei, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Singapore, Indonesia, India and even Africa,” she said, adding that they provided a room for prayers after buka puasa.

Famed for its nasi campur (mixed rice), the cafe offers a delectable spread of Ramadan delights such as grilled fish, ayam percik, lamb curry as well as bubur pulut hitam and bubur kacang hijau.

The eatery is also promoting traditional kampung favourites like kuih lapis, talam ubi, kuih bakar pandang, cendul and, of course, ABC (air batu campur).

“Our most popular buka puasa dish is chicken rice,” said Dr Noriati, adding that they start preparing the dishes from 11am and kuih from 2pm.

She said they came up with nasi kerabu as a Ramadan speciality last year but she did not have time to do it this year.

She added that they would like to introduce more traditional dishes but faced constraints in sourcing the right ingredients like ulam.

“Sometimes, I‘ve to go to east London to look for supplies. But even the ikan kering (dried fish) and ikan masin (salted fish) are frozen,” she said.

With more than 800 people attending the cafe‘s Hari Raya open house last year, there are plans to hold another this year at a date to be confirmed.

Well, Hanisah may not be around any more but her culinary skills are certainly here to stay, at least that‘s what the husband-and-wife team are striving to maintain. Choi Tuck Wo

Source: http://thestar.com.my

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